Hello from the Haa Valley!

This morning, DD took us to a traditional mask dance festival at the local Lakhang Karpo.

It should have taken place in October, but for heavy rain which forced them to postpone it; so we were rather lucky to be able to attend, especially since according to Bhutanese culture, attending the districts festivals washes away your bad karma.

Every district has a main Lakhang (temple) with a large square and surrounding stone steps on which the local families make themselves comfortable to enjoy the festival ceremonies.

We did not take closer photos of the attendees (taking photographs of people without asking permission is rightfully frowned upon in Bhutan) but let us tell you : they. came. prepared.

Equipped with cushions, large flasks of milk tea, food and blankets; it looked like they were in for a day-long picnic.

The festival started at 8:30am and went on until 5pm (we didn’t stay that long), and it was clearly “the place to be” — everyone proudly wearing traditional dress (Gho for men and Kira for women), and enjoying lively chatter with their neighbours and friends.

Most striking perhaps were the Atsaras, sacred festival clowns who guide and correct the dancers, all while providing a sort of spiritual comic relief. They were rude, raucous and hilarious, freely shouting over the speeches (though not over the traditional songs), and there was something fascinating about the interplay of religious performance and comedic irreverence.

After the festival, we crossed Chelela Pass at 3,800 meters where we had hot, sweet milk tea and tried a traditional bhutanese porridge (salty and spicy and, according to renaud, delicious)

Once we reached Paro we visited Kyichu Lhakhang, a temple which dates back to the 7th century (with an addition made in 1971 by Ashi Kesang Choden Wangchuck, and another in 2018).

The oldest part is designated to Gautama Buddha, and one of the oldest temples in Bhutan — one of 108 ‘taming temples’ that tibetan emperor Songtsen Gampo built in one night to pin down the demoness Sin Mo.

Two of these temples are located in Bhutan, pinning down the demoness’ left ankle and knee.

After a quick detour to see Paro Dzong at night; we had dinner at the resort and fell asleep — ready for a very short night, as we had to check-in at 7am for our flight east to Yonphula.