Renaud and Fee

Our adventures in the world

Day 15 — What do the stars say?

A post from the archives…

We awoke in the busy city of Thimphu, still swaying with the impact the last days had on us.

Thimphu, in the sun

After a quick breakfast, we made our way to the outskirts of the city to the Pangrizampa College For Astrology, the only dedicated astrology school in Bhutan, where monks are instructed in the science of Tibetan Buddhist Astrology, and where we planned to consult a Lama for a unique perspective into lives.

The College is located just outside Thimphu, and from the outside you couln’t differentiate it from any other monastery or temple.

The entrance to the Astrologer College
The spiritual and the mundane

After spending some time waiting in the entrance to the temple, watching on as a mix of locals and tourists flowed in and out, we were ushered inside to long benches and low tables, where we sat opposite the Lama and his designated translator.

Scratching notes on long pieces of paper printed with reference tables, he explored our past lives with us, and calculated the odds and ends of our marriage (all looks very favourable), giving us advice on how to improve our health, fortune, and karma in this life.

Afterwards, we made our way back to our befriended Wangmo Choden family to make an offering at the family altar, and pick up renaud’s jacket, which Tshering had very generously offered to repair.

With the help of our guide Mr. Tashi, we bought different kinds of incense and butter as offerings for the family temple on our way.

Being invited to pray and make offerings at a family altar is seen as an invitation to spiritually join a family in Bhutan, as Kinley explained when she asked fee to do so, so we were both honoured and a little nervous, keen to do and bring the right things.

Kinley has built a beautiful family altar and prayer-room into her house, a sacred space overlooking the city and adjacent forests. We made our offerings and prayers and spent some time in silent meditation – being grateful for the family and the time spent together.

Afterwards we had tea and biscuits made by Tshiring herself (they were delicious), and learned more about yathra and Tshiring’s life. She blessed us both, our marriage, and the yathra we took home with us.

This blessing by Tshiring felt the most special, and we couldn’t be more grateful for the lucky coincidence that brought us together.

We bid our farewells, making our way through Thimphu in order to pick up some souvenirs and look for a Gho to bring home.

We left Thimphu in the afternoon, having spent only two nights in the capital city of Bhutan and, having seen less than we planned due to our changed itinerary (choosing to see friends rather than landmarks), we vowed to come back and spend more time in this vibrant city.

On route to Paro, which will be the last stop of our journey, we experienced several road blocks due to the Global Peace Ceremony, and the arrival of the Indian Prime Minister, paired with a nasty landslide blocking some routes.

All of this led to our arriving at the hotel exhausted (and slightly car-sick) from the drive, so we enjoyed a calm and cosy night.

The valley of Thimphu in the back

The plan is to hike to the Tigers Nest tomorrow and fly out the day after that. Somehow suddenly, our long journey has come to an end – but luckily… we’re also kind of ready to be back home.

Leave a comment